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Легенды Бахчисарая

Перед посещением перечитайте «Бахчисарайский фонтан» Пушкина, и вы тоньше поймете дух дворца. А в не слишком людный день на территории Хан-Сарая вы услышите, как кричат павлины…

Здесь жизнь владык земных витала,
Кипела воля, сила, страсть,
Здесь власть когда-то пировала,
И гром окрест, и страх металла –

И все прошло, исчезла власть.

Теперь все полно тишиною,
Как сей, увенчанный луною,
Глубокий яхонтовый свод.
Все пусто – башни и киоски,

Лишь чьей-то тени виден ход
Да слышны в звонком плеске вод
Стихов волшебных отголоски…

В.Г. Бенедиктов «Бахчисарай»

Бахчисарай – столица Крымского ханства. Название города образовано из крымско-татарских слов: бахча – сад и сарай – дворец. Причины его туристической популярности хорошо определил автор старого путеводителя: «Бахчисарай… служит одним из памятников седой старины, разбросанных по всему Крымскому полуострову. И неудивительно, что редко кто решается миновать Бахчисарай и лишить себя возможности видеть этот характерный уголок, в котором среди Европейской России приютился и держится бледнеющий облик Азии…

Бахчисарайский дворец, гравюра XIX века

Люди жили в окрестностях Бахчисарая с глубокой древности. Прямым доказательством этого служит обнаруженная археологами стоянка первобытного человека эпохи палеолита, возраст которой датируется 40-50 тыс.лет. Стоянка обнаружена в скальном навесе, расположенном на левом берегу реки Чурук-Су. Несмотря на то, что в районе ул. Басенко люди живут уже почти 50тыс.лет, официальные источники уменьшают его возраст в 100 раз, утверждая, что Бахчисараю всего 500 лет. Но даже согласно этой дискриминационной версии никто не может отрицать, что в жилах Бахчисарая течет «королевская кровь», что он родился столицей, а ведь такой судьбой могут похвастать немногие города на свете.

Вид на город Бахчисарай

Бахчисарай расположился на высоте 150-300 м над уровнем моря, на стыке Внешней и Внутренней гряд Крымских гор. Город делится речкой Чурук-Су на две части, старую и новую, Старый город с резиденцией ханов расположен на левом, более пологом, берегу реки. Новый город разросся на правой стороне долины с крутыми отвесными скалами, не пропускающими ветра, – естественные мягкие климатические условия и прельщали людей к этому месту.

За 250 лет, к 18 веку, Бахчисарай достиг подлинного процветания.  Многие тысячи торговцев стекались к бахчисарайским рынкам и караван-сараям, пять сотен мастерских изготавливали всевозможные ремесленные изделия. Продукция бахчисарайских мастеров славилась по всему миру (в т.ч. и охотно скупавшееся Европой и Россией искусно украшенное оружие). В отличие от других восточных городов, Бахчисарай имел прекрасный водопровод. Вода проводилась по глиняным трубам, проходившим под землей, а затем уходила в оросительные каналы. Без малого полторы сотни фонтанов звенели родниковой водой. Старый Бахчисарай делился на 30 кварталов- приходов. В центре каждого обязательно размещались мечеть и мехтеб – церковное училище. Три десятка мечетей и несколько церквей (греческие, армянская и латинская) собирали по праздникам многолюдные собрания – население города составляло около 7000 человек.

По идущей к дворцу главной улице старого Бахчисарая с трудом могли разминуться две повозки, по остальным улочкам, расположенным уступами друг над другом, могли продвигаться лишь пешеходы и всадники. Попасть в дом можно было только через узкий коридор, выходящий в небольшой дворик с причудливым лабиринтом подпорных стен, лестниц и похожих на ласточкины гнезда маленьких балкончиков называемых мушараби.

Был знаменит Бахчисарай своими кофейнями, где кофе варился из смолотого вручную мельчайшего порошка. Увы, из семнадцати старых кофеен до нынешних времен не сохранилось ни одной, исчезли в городе и высокие каменные ограды, но в старом городе все равно сохранился неповторимый облик древней столицы, подчеркнутый роскошными кустами вьющихся роз, жасмина и пирамидальными тополями, похожими на минареты.

Среди многочисленных памятников экзотической для нас «восточной» архитектуры – мавзолеев – дюрбе, Зинджирли-медресе  и мечети Тахталы-джами – первое место занимает  Ханский дворец – «Хан-Сарай».

Дворец как он есть ныне

Это совершенно самобытный памятник крымско-татарской архитектуры. Хан-Сарай строился и перестраивался на протяжении трех веков (XVI – XVIII).

За те столетия, которые Хан-Сарай служил резиденцией главы Крымского государства, его внешний облик претерпел существенные изменения. Непросто будет в точности восстановить ту последовательность перемен, которая в итоге привела к складыванию знакомого нам нынешнего облика Хан-Сарая. Почти при каждом новом правителе во Дворце появлялись новые сооружения, производились ремонты. Крымские ханы ставили себе памятники на века в виде дворцовых построек, ряд которых можно видеть в Бахчисарае поныне. Ханский Дворец – истинная летопись рода Гераев, многие представители которого внесли вклад в его великолепие.

В 1794г. по приказу хана Крым-Герая на гробнице его рано умершей жены Диляры Бикеч был создан знаменитый «Сельсебиль» (райский источник) – известный теперь как «Фонтан слез». Этот уникальный памятник архитектуры малых форм, будучи перенесен во дворец, стал его поэтическим центром. Именно «Фонтан слез», воспетый в ставших классическими произведениях А.С.Пушкина,  А.Мицкевича, принес городу и Хан-Сараю поистине всемирную славу и Жизнь (после выселения крымских татар в 1944г. дворец хотели снести, чтобы ничего не напоминало здесь об этом народе, и лишь благодаря известным на весь мир произведениям о Бахчисарайском фонтане сохранили жизнь и Бахчисарайскому дворцу).

Картина средневекового Бахчисарая будет не полной, если не рассказать о самых ранних памятниках – тех, что сохранились до наших дней.

Продолжая путь от Ханского дворца по главной улице города, попадаешь в долину Марьям-дере.  Здесь расположен Свято-Успенский мужской монастырь. История возникновения монастыря связана с Византией еще в VIII – IX вв. Легенда о появлении чудотворной иконы Богородицы в скалах привела к постройке пещерной церкви Успенского монастыря, с ярусами искусственных пещер-келий монахов. Монастырь просуществовал с перерывами свыше тысячелетия.

Вид на Свято-Успенский мужской монастырь

Проходя мимо источника со святой водой, дорога ведет к городищу «Чуфут-Кале». В старину его называли «Кырк-Ор» – в переводе «сорок берлог или нор», а начиная с XVII в. его стали именовать «Чуфут-кале», т.е. «иудейская крепость», поскольку к тому времени здесь жили караимы – тюрки, исповедовавшие религию, близкую к иудаизму.

Сегодня узкие улочки давно заброшенного поселения заросли травой. О жизни, шумевшей здесь на протяжении веков вам, напомнят мощные оборонительные стены, овеянный легендами мавзолей Джаныке-Ханум, вырубленные в скале пещеры да глубокая дорожная колея, оставленная колесами когда-то проходивших здесь повозок.

Тропинка – черная змея –
шуршит в ногах у поворота.
Кто скажет, сколько лет стоят
чуфут-калийские ворота?

С каких веков
тяжелый скрип
живет в петлях?
Толкни, попробуй.
Скупые отблески зари
ложатся ржавчиной на скобы.

Когда-то и в Чуфут-Кале
шумела жизнь и с облаками
седые башни на скале
сплетались дымными руками.

Тяжелый труд и жар войны
видали башни боевые,
и не сходили со стены
ни днем, ни ночью часовые.

Тут все –
на зное, на ветру,
храня домашние устои,
тут караимки по утру
с горы спускались за водою.

И не заметить я не мог:
не стерло время – въелся в камень –
тех древних очагов дымок …
Стою, беседую с веками.

С.П. Щипачев «Чуфут-Кале»

После прогулки по пещерному городу Чуфут-Кале, снова спустившись в долину Марьям-дере можно отдохнуть среди цветущих роз в уютно обустроенных беседках и попробовать блюда национальной крымско-татарской кухни. А чтобы полностью окунуться в средневековье и почувствовать себя путником прошлого тысячелетия, побывайте в кофейне ресторана «Салачик»: здесь сидя на овечьих шкурах, и наблюдая, как у старого очага хлопочет хозяйка, вы почувствуете аромат натурального крымско-татарского кофе приготовленного в джезвě – в медной кофеварке. Здесь можно попробовать восточные сладости и домашнее варенье.

Как пахнет Родина? …
…Овечьим сыром, кофе ароматом,
Разлитым тонко в тоненькие чашки,
Дагчаем, миндалем, душистой мятой,
Сегодняшнею явью, сном вчерашним?

Лиля Буджурова «Как пахнет Родина?»

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